Build A Power Tool Cabinet

### Build A Power Tool Cabinet: Finally...a Smart Solution to Tool Clutter

As your power tool collections grow it becomes more important to provide safe, convenient, closed storage for the tools and accessories. View the power tool cabinet, measuring 48 x 24 x 16 inches, is designed to accommodate the following tools and accessories: a circular saw, two drills, a finishing and belt sander, a router, and a jigsaw. If you don't have that many tools (nor anticipate having them), simply use the space for other storage. With extra-deep adjustable shelves of three different widths, this versatile cabinet accommodates changing tool collections and tools of various sizes, including those that may come with carrying cases. It's compartmentalized for the sake of order and to prevent the tangle of cords that would be inevitable if several tools were stored on a single shelf. The doors not only keep out dust and dirt - they also make it possible to lock or otherwise childproof the cabinet.

Materials List

- 1/4" x 4' x 4' plywood (1)
- 3/8" x 4' x 8' plywood (1)
- 3/4" x 4' x 8' plywood (1)
- Tape measure
- Square
- Circular saw
- Router (optional)
- Finish sander and sandpaper
- Shelf standards (4 @ 48" and 4 @ 36")
- 48 shelf clips
- Hacksaw
- Long-nose pliers
- 4-ft. pipe clamps (4)
- Carpenter's wood glue
- 2-in., coarse-thread drywall screws
- Drill/driver and various bits
- Pilot/countersink bit
- Veneer edging and iron
- 1-in. spade bit
- 4d finishing nails jigsaw
- Wood rasp (optional)
- 1-1/2 x 48" continuous hinges (2)
- Self-centering drill bit or punch
- Door pulls (2) and magnetic catches (2)

1. Cut and Mill the Cabinet Body Parts: Based on the cutting schedule (see link above), cut parts A-F. Cut a 3/8 x 3/8-in. rabbet (a channel cut in the edge of a board to accommodate another board) in A, B, C, and D to accommodate the back (G). With a router or circular saw, cut a 1/4 x 5/8-in. dado (a channel cut in the interior of a board to accommodate another board) in A, B, and E for each of the shelf standards. Sand the parts and install the shelf standards before continuing with the assembly.

- Tip: Installing shelf standards with the very short nails required can be tough on your fingertips. Use long-nose pliers to grasp the nails while you tack them. To make shelves easier to slide out you can add a third shelf standard centered between the others.

2. Assemble the Cabinet Body: Trial-assemble the parts (front-edge down) with clamps. Bore pilot and countersink holes; and then measure and cut the back (G). Make the final assembly with glue and screws for parts A-F and install the back (G) with glue and nails. Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth before it dries.

Apply iron-on real wood veneer to the exposed edges of the cabinet body and doors for a more finished look.

- Tip: Verify that corner-to-corner diagonal measurements are equal and you'll know that the cabinet is square.

3. Cut the Adjustable Shelves: Cut and sand the adjustable shelves. Drill two 1-in. holes near the front edge of each shelf and use a jigsaw to cut out the material between them to create hand holes. Round over the edges of the hand hole with a router or rasp; and sand until smooth.

4. Install the Doors: Cut and edge the two doors with veneer. Clamp the doors in place as you install a continuous hinge on the side of the cabinet and in the edge of each door. Install magnetic catches, door pulls and, if desired, a hasp and lock.

5. Customize and Install Shelves: Using the shelves as a base, customize shelves for your accessories. Here are some ideas:

- Bore a series of 9/32-in. diameter holes in one or more shelves to accommodate your 1/4-in. router bits and drill accessories.
- Drill a hole through the center of a shelf and install a bolt over which you can secure circular saw blades.
- Build divided compartments of various sizes atop the storage. These can be attached with hot-melt glue, set over cleats, or set into grooves that you mill into the shelves.

6. Install the Cabinet: To mount the cabinet at a convenient height on a wall: Locate wall studs and install a cleat to rest the cabinet on and glue another cleat inside at the top. Drive additional screws through inside cleat into the studs. If you plan to sit the cabinet on the floor: Build a 2x4 base and attach it to the bottom of the cabinet; position the cabinet against a wall, and drive two screws through the back of the cabinet into wall studs to keep it from tipping over.

Cutting List
Part | # | Dimension
A, B (side) | 2 | 3/4 x 16 x 48"
C, D (top/bottom) | 2 | 3/4 x 16 x 22-1/2"
E (divider) | 1 | 3/4 x 15-3/4 x 34"
F (fixed shelf) | 1 | 3/4 x 15-3/4 x 22-1/2"
G (back) | 1 | 1/4 x 23-1/4 x 47-1/4"
H, I (door) | 2 | 3/4 x 11-15/16 x 48"
I (adj. shelf) | 3 | 3/8 x 15-5/8 x 11-1/2"
J (adj. shelf) | 9 | 3/8 x 15-5/8 x 9-3/4"
K (continuous hinge) | 2 | 1-1/2 x 48"
L (shelf standard) | 4 4 | 46-1/2" long 34" long
M (inside cleat) | 1 | 3/4 x 3 x 22-1/2"
N (outside cleat) | 1 | 3/4 x 3 x 24"