Perfect for drinks and magazines in the living room

Perfect for drinks and magazines in the living room, or as a stand for a TV and video, this clean-lined, low table isn't hard to make, as Dave Mackenzie explains This versatile table is made from European ash, an open-textured timber with a straight grain and a colour ranging from pale cream to pale brown. However, I managed to find some with a darker stain running through parts of the grain and also with some areas of wild grain, both of which I think add visual interest. When you're working with solid timber, it's important to consider the natural qualities in the material and how they'll relate to the overall design. In this case, an uncomplicated design is offset by the inherent qualities of the timber.
Construction

I used three 8ft boards which I had planed to size [6in (152mm) wide and 1in (25mm) thick] by my local supplier. I then checked each one carefully to ensure that the edges were square - where necessary, they were adjusted with a plane. Once jointed the three boards will be just over the necessary width of 17in.

Once this initial dimensioning has been done, lay out the three planks to work out the best arrangement, ensuring that the good faces are on the outside. It looks good if you cut the top and sides from continuous lengths so that the same grain pattern runs across the top and down each side. When you've decided the positioning of each board (ensuring that each plank has the growth rings on the end grain placed alternately up and down to avoid warping), cut each one into four pieces (i.e. top, 2 sides, shelf) slightly longer than required. Clearly identify which pieces are to be joined together, then mark on the jointing edges of each the position of the centre point of the biscuits, about 4in (100mm) apart.

Biscuit Joints
|  | I chose to use biscuits because when cut with a biscuit jointer they're one of the quickest and most accurate ways of edge jointing planks.
|  | When the grooves have been cut, apply glue to the joints, place the biscuits into the slots and clamp the planks together.
|  | The clamps are positioned alternatively under and over the workpiece to minimize distorting the wood when pressure is applied.
|  | When the glue has dried, remove the clamps and use a large square to mark the edges before trimming them with a saw.
|  | At this stage, remove any glue and blemishes on the faces of the boards with a belt sander.
Edge Profile

There are a number of ways to shape the quadrant moulding on the edges of the top and sides, but I opted to work the curved profile using a powered plane and abrasive paper.

Mark the profile of the quadrant on the ends of the edges of each piece, then use a plane to take off the corners as close to the line as possible. Finally, use abrasive paper on a shaped block to complete the rounding process.

Alternatively, make a template for the shape from a piece of thick card hold it against the shape as work proceeds along the length of the board until the profile is reached.

Mitre Joints
|  | The top is mitred to the sides to create a clean uninterrupted transition from horizontal to vertical, and are biscuit jointed to aid location and increase the strength of the joint. Cut the mitres with a mitre saw and use the biscuit jointer to make the grooves for the biscuits. Note that the biscuits are not positioned in the centre of the mitre are cut closer to the inside edge of the joint so that the cutter can cut to the full depth for the biscuit without the risk of breaking through to the outside surface.
|  | Take the shelf component and reduce the width by couple of inches by sawing a piece off one edge and smoothing with a plane. Long, stub tenons are cut at each end of the shelf and housed into mortices in the sides.
Cutting List

Item | Quantity | Length (in) | Width (in) | Thickness (in)
Top | 1 | 30 | 17 | 1
Sides | 2 | 17 | 17 | 1
Shelf | 1 | 28 3/4 | 15 | 1